Day 5 – I feel like the Martian!

I find myself planning everything and advanced making sure that I can make my sessions so I feel like the Martian. OK well it's not really like that, but I feel like I have to plan around my surf sessions now to make sure that I make it a continuous streak prior to going to New Zealand.

This morning, scratch that, today I went to pavilions yet again. The reason why is that it has been big and I'm not really ready to make the paddle into 6-8 foot waves at a legitimately heavy break. Anyway, I had fun and I'm starting to get my groove back so it is really exciting. However, I have a lot to work on in terms of my cardio, strength etc. I just got a membership at the local pool so hopefully that will give me the confidence to get out when it gets big.  Nothing worse then breaking a board/leash when you are way offshore and in a lot of current.