Day 119

Last day in Kauai before we go to New Zealand! I made it! I planned on surfing every day until we went to New Zealand and I have done that. So I'm pretty proud of myself. It wasn't easy, I had illness and injury but somehow just kept going and made it. Now I'm in good shape for New Zealand and looking forward to a nice rest. Last day was just 3 waves at Anini. So 119 days in a row!

Day 26

I've been surfing every day. Haven't logged them all however. Not really sure why. Have had some really good days however. I just got done surfing my Coco's. It was really fun. The waves were pretty good size probably 10 foot faces. Had a blast.

Day 13 - 17

Day 13 - East side was too big north

Day 14 - East side was too big north

Both days were really fun, but a little ego hit to not surf the big perfect stuff.

Day 15 - pretty bad pavilions. Wind turned onshore really hard.

Day 16 - Longboarded the bay. So fun caught a lot of waves.

Day 17 - surfed the bay. Was big. Got drilled, but checked it off.

Day 12

In the books.  Best session yet.  Surfed HWs.  More turtles than people out there today.  I had so much fun.  Rode my skate down there for the first time.  Will likely do it more.  Tomorrow it is supposed to be like 50ft, so I'm not sure where I'll surf to get out of the way of that freight train.

Drive Home

Day 11

Had a good session today by myself. That seems to be more the norm when I surf the beach break. I had a look at trees but it was too big and there was a lot of rip current. There were people out, but it didn't look good so I went down the beach to the Cape. Got a couple a good below sea level waves and rode them pretty far for the conditions. It was really heavy beach break but fun.

Drive home pic

Day 10 - Super Bowl Sunday.

It was horrible out there today! I surfed the Cape. Horrible. I'm glad I got that out-of-the-way today. The funny thing is that I did get one decent left. I was able to pump and pick up speed. Hopefully tomorrow's better!

Day 9

So gnarly today! Waited too long. Now a cold front hit. First one. It got really bad fast. Caught 3 waves. Shore pound, but kept the streak alive!

Day eight

Surfed Coco's today. It was really good. Head high and perfect. Only four guys out. I started to surf really well. Although a little bit inconsistent. So much fun!

Day 7

I surf the bay today and it was really good. It was small enough to be manageable for me. Plus my confidence is getting higher. I swam as well today. I swam 1000 m today. My surfing is coming up to par as well. But my back is bothering me now. I'll work through it.

Day 6

It is a lot easier to always be in trunks.  I admit.  This streak, feels far more doable than previous ones.  Retirement + Paradise = Surfing A lot made easy.  At least that is how it feels today.  Maybe it will be different tomorrow.

Surfed some half-formed sandbars in the bay today.  Pretty walled, but still found a couple good ones.  It blows my mind that what I'm surfing daily is better than a good day in El Porto, where I used to live.  Additionally, there is nobody out except for a few tourists.  I guess that is because there are world-class waves all over the joint.  It is weird surfing solo all the time, but I love it.

Swam 750m today and worked on holding my breath.  I feel like I'm pretty close to getting into some more challenging surf.

I'm looking forward to being in top shape for our trip to New Zealand / Bali?  Or wherever there are some good waves.  I'm starting to get my grom-stoke back!

Day 5 – I feel like the Martian!

I find myself planning everything and advanced making sure that I can make my sessions so I feel like the Martian. OK well it's not really like that, but I feel like I have to plan around my surf sessions now to make sure that I make it a continuous streak prior to going to New Zealand.

This morning, scratch that, today I went to pavilions yet again. The reason why is that it has been big and I'm not really ready to make the paddle into 6-8 foot waves at a legitimately heavy break. Anyway, I had fun and I'm starting to get my groove back so it is really exciting. However, I have a lot to work on in terms of my cardio, strength etc. I just got a membership at the local pool so hopefully that will give me the confidence to get out when it gets big.  Nothing worse then breaking a board/leash when you are way offshore and in a lot of current.

Days until New Zealand!

Also days left in streak.

Day 4

The waves picked up today again. I served pavilions again to get out of the way of the bigger sets. I'm still out of shape. I went and checked my Coco's but it wasn't that great because it had some size. So today I had a couple of good turns however. I'm pretty happy with how it's progressing so far. It is really fun to get out the water.

Driving Home

Day 3

There are some good sandbars at trees! Had a lot of fun today. Got more waves then my three wave quota. I was just surfing today. Can't wait until tomorrow!

Day 2

I caught three waves at pavilions. It wasn't very good. I had a blast though. Now we are headed down to the Eastside to go to the beach with the kids. At the keiki beach!

Session 1 Yesterday, Session 2 Today

Not feeling motivated, but I'll do it.

Santa Barbara

 

Everyone is talking about surfing, but I'm not doing it.  Can't wait to get back to Kauai.

We were there this day: https://vimeo.com/150621949

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