Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Have no idea how many I'm down

Got out there for 3 really bad waves today. Surprisingly it was still fun even though it was like 58 degrees. I don't know why I didn't wear my 4/3.

Had a good weekend at the campsite. Good to see the family and camp! I'll write more on here going forward. I have been working really hard for some reason. Not really even sure why at this point.

It was really good to see Pops in better spirits too! He got me the best b-day present ever. I would never think to buy an extra one. A battery for my cam. I'm going to make a mini duckumentary on me mex trip.

I'm looking forward to the next swell and the next contest. It should be fun! So stoked on that stuff. It is weird how happy that stuff makes me. That's it. That's life. That's the journey. A swell. Not getting to some point. Not getting to a place. Just a swell. It is so funny, when I decided to fully take advantage of the next swell by hooking up a trip to mex, how happy I was. Basically skipping past all of the misery in the office. They cannot understand, they will likely never understand. They look at me like I'm crazy. Maybe I am, but it is worth it for the anticipation that I now have. Even if I don't get a wave, the anticipation, it never changes and that in itself is worth it: Stoke

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