Thursday, July 1, 2010

6 Down - Feeling it

New pad is working out well.  Took our dog on a run on my skater this morning while I watched the crowded waves - the spotted dude is so outta shape!  This morning was good and I was on it at 5:30.  Surfed until about 7 when it was completely packed out.  Chest high with really good shape.  I had an 8 point ride this morning.  Massive carve to tail release, full rail cut back off the white water hard, two pumps and then blow the tail.  Surfing really well today.  No leash, lost my board once and didn't hold back.  That has me feeling it.  Looking forward to surfing with homey this weekend, it should be fun.  Maybe Dume.  Maybe somewhere else, I don't know.

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