Dawned it at Mag Bar with Aron from Hydra. Surfed until my pinky finger had no feeling. It's June and the water is still 54. WTF?
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365 Sessions in 365 Days is not the dumbest thing we've ever done, but its pretty close and I wish we never started. These are the accounts of our days in and out of the water.
friends of ours
DAYS WE SURFED
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2010
(143)
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May
(18)
- So close, yet not really.
- Ice cold peaks
- Diarhhea.
- Channel Islands Demo Day
- Blow job.
- Takahashi
- Minus 8 - so shitty today.
- Post session pizza
- Minus 14 and my new watch.
- Ed called today.
- Olson checking the pier from her towel.
- Last time the breaking point was a girl.
- Jordy and some others wield perfect 10's at the Ni...
- My Day
- Bored in Nica...
- 44/49 - I think (oldie but a goodie)
- Still messy, still not surfing, still behind.
- What is love?
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May
(18)
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