So close, yet not really.

And yet again another reason why everything changes while I'm busy waiting for the right time. With the lack of swell we currently have I decided to surf later in the day. A mistake. You'd think after living at the beach for well over a decade I'd know that Memorial Day is one of the busiest beach days of the year, but not me. Zero recall of last year. I go down to the river at 1pm; fucking prime time. Might as well just walked. So many cars, so many familes. Lunacy. Over it. Rather take a nap than deal with the swarms of people. Done.

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Location:Beach Blvd,North Coast,United States

Ice cold peaks

Dawned it at Mag Bar with Aron from Hydra. Surfed until my pinky finger had no feeling. It's June and the water is still 54. WTF?

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Location:California 1,North Coast,United States

Diarhhea.

As a general rule of thumb, I try to be near a bathroom, preferably mine and wearing something I can easily take off. My wetsuit isn't top of mind, although probably the best outfit I own, if given the choice of something to wear while shitting myself. However, this morning I just happen to be in the right place at the right time.

North side on fire.

South side burning.

Channel Islands Demo Day

We skipped it. Surfed on the north side instead. We should have checked it out tho. Been wanting to try one of those Dumpster Diver shapes for a while; this morning would have been ideal. Whateves.

Mike leaves for Fiji tomorrow. Jealous. No. Maybe. Yes. Not really. Suppose I could have gone if I wanted, but then I'd have to leave.

Minus 17.

Blow job.

Went back down to state beach this afternoon to shoot more and have a look at this north wind we have. Shot the lights out, literally. My lens and my glasses now look like frosted glass from the airborne sand. Fuck me. So wind blown. Prolly take a week to finally glass off once this nasty stuff calms down.

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Location:Pacific Coast Hwy,North Coast,United States

Takahashi

Woke up early to a text Roger in Laguna at Salt Creek:Shithouse. Shine? I passed and went down to the southside to see Neil's heat in the NSSA Championships. I met him surfing in the WSA earlier in the season, we had our championships last weekend and he told me he'd be there this morning. So I tabbed my camera and went down. Same story as down south; shithouse. Correction. Planet shit. Haven't seen it so bad in a while. So much wind. Anyhow, said hello to Neil and wished him and then the head judge called the contest until tomorrow. Shot a bunch of pictures of the vollyball courts and the lifegaurd towers. Should have a few good ones. I'll post em later this week after I retouch them. Saw Takahashi too. He made the final and is surfing against Neil tomorrow morning to defend his west coast title. The Asian is good. I beat him in a heat earlier this year, but he smoked me in the final, my money on him to do the same to Neil tomorrow. Out.

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Location:Federal Ave,Costa Mesa,United States

Minus 8 - so shitty today.

Getting ready for Tavi though! At this rate I'll only come back even!

Post session pizza

Surfed the northside this morning with the first sign of the new south swell on tap for the weekend. Super fun. Massive peaks breaking off the end of the pier. Saw some Aussie qs bloak out there dismantling everything he took off on. So smooth and solid with his rail work. I'm always amazed at how beautiful surfing looks when it's done with confidence and grace, it reminds me of watching ballet but not as gay and much easier. Anyhow, it was a good session and the Aussie gave me the node after I crushed a frontside hack a few feet away from him. Funny, but his approval changed the course of my day, maybe even my weekend. Now I'm at Il Dolce eating pizza and a side of meatballs. Fuck yeah.

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Location:Harbor Blvd,Costa Mesa,United States

Minus 14 and my new watch.

Anyone who knows me, knows I hate jewelry; it just gets in the way. Call me old school, but if it isn't part of my body, then I don't need it. So you see, having a watch isn't something I like wearing or even owning, but in the event of a surf contest, it's a distinct advantage. So I had one. The Nixon Lo Down, same as the one I lost in that car accident a couple years ago, except this one was yellow. The Lo Down is a standard watch, nothing fancy, told the time, counted down, it did the bare minimum and now I can't find it. Yet I suspect it's doing that very same thing; counting down the minutes until someone finds it, so that it can do what it does and tell them the time.

Jewelry sucks eggs.

Ed called today.

All the way from Virginia wondering who put the lotion and pubic hairs in the pocket of his favorite swim trunks three years ago on a boat in the Mentawaii Islands. I told him it was Olson, hung up the phone and then I found this.

It's not only disgusting, its preposterous and more importantly orange board shorts are for homos. Right?

Olson checking the pier from her towel.

Last time the breaking point was a girl.

At the time I had 50 days in a row and going for 100, but lounging around the pool seemed like a better use of my time. That said, I could justify almost anything I do with an excuse that seems valid. The truth is, there are none, committing to something is simply a choice and following through is a testament to ones character.

So fast forward to this morning and waking up to a text from my account director on his way to a meeting in Sacramento to present a website that I've been working on for a week. "We have to change the copy, it can't say party." Now I'm faced with a choice, go surfing and stay at minus 10, or go to the office and fix the problem.

Surfing everyday puts a massive stress on the thin fabric I call my life, but without it I feel like there is nothing grounding me in something I truly love. And so I move on, missing yet another day.

Minus 11.

Jordy and some others wield perfect 10's at the Nike 6.0 Lowers Pro.

My Day

Bored in Nica...

44/49 - I think (oldie but a goodie)

Still messy, still not surfing, still behind.

What is love?

Love is one of those things that is hard to define, like the meaning of life, there is no simple way to describe it. So the description takes many forms, sometimes in art, sometimes in music and even sometimes in form of harsh words as a parent tries to protect his offspring from the youthful stupidity of "learning the hard way". So, I will try to describe it to you in my own way. Of course, for me, since I lack that innate ability of artistic expression that is so often associated with effective emotional communication on the topic, I must then take the boring approach of defining it and giving examples of it. Through my trials and tribulations, I have observed that for love to sustain, there are certain things that have to exist. These are Trust, Friendship and Respect. I have also noted that the web that holds these things together is a solid base of consistent Communication. This is what is needed to find a partner that is compatible with you for the long run. It is much beyond the simple visual that you have of walking down the trail with her under your arm and feeling proud that other guys are checking her out. Showing off her curves, being proud of her size the way she looks. Because, you will have some bad times with her, and she'll need to stand by your side when you do. Picturing yourself growing old together is nice, but not a requirement. Yes, I've experimented over the last few years, I tried the alternative types, bigger ones, the sleeker ones, but as I drift in search of the meaning of each relationship, I somehow lost sight of the fundamentals of any relationship. Trust: This has been lacking, that solid feeling off the bottom, that positive feeling when you take a cutback off the whitewater, the ability to release her tail and show it to the guys out the back, yet not be jealous if they want to ride her. Then there is Friendship: Those days when it is windy and there is nobody else around, you have to have that connection to just have fun with her no matter what the conditions are. To enjoy each others presence, to be able to reach down and feel her rail and know that she is meant for you. Respect: She stands on her own merit, she makes you proud. Communication: Transferring your desire through your feet, giving each other positive feedback. What does this equal? You see I have found love again, she is shorter by an inch, a little skinner, but just a tad thicker, she has traditional values as I'm done experimenting with the alternative types and yes, we have a connection. Yes, I love my new Rusty Redline.

What is love, baby don't hurt me, don't hurt me, no more...