6/6 Days/Sessions

Starting to feel it again. Getting that confidence back. Oh yeah. Late drop, throw it on edge pull in high and tight. It is the little nuances that you don't think about that make the difference. When pulling into a barrel, the tendency is to just want to stand there. What I have found is that if pull under and go as high as possible in the barrel and make a slight adjustment (turning down the face of the wave) you can pick up just enough speed and tuck just enough to fit in and make it out. I did this in the morning. Sick barrel - came out clean. Then I found another one that I back-doored. A kid was right in front of me duck diving, so I either had to pull it off or we would be a tangled mess on the inside. Same high-and-tight move. Although I did not make it out of this one, I fit in perfectly and adjusted along the way to get some crazy travel time. I pulled in about 15 yards before the kid and when I fell, I came up about 15 yards on the other side of the kid. So I was in there for about 30 yards - a pretty good distance for a barrel at my home break. The kid immediately threw his hands up and hooted for me. That will make your session, it did mine. Of course, I had to play it off, but I was stoked!