Such a nice day. Sano.

Down A lot - Waves this morning but walled....

I didn't surf, but had a good walk with the doggy. He digs checking the surf in the morning. It was way too walled, but pretty sizable. It was fun watching dudes get pitched.

Nice Night

So many guys out there right now. It is pretty good. I surfed earlier got a few. Should've surfed at sunset though.

Have no idea how many I'm down

Got out there for 3 really bad waves today. Surprisingly it was still fun even though it was like 58 degrees. I don't know why I didn't wear my 4/3.

Had a good weekend at the campsite. Good to see the family and camp! I'll write more on here going forward. I have been working really hard for some reason. Not really even sure why at this point.

It was really good to see Pops in better spirits too! He got me the best b-day present ever. I would never think to buy an extra one. A battery for my cam. I'm going to make a mini duckumentary on me mex trip.

I'm looking forward to the next swell and the next contest. It should be fun! So stoked on that stuff. It is weird how happy that stuff makes me. That's it. That's life. That's the journey. A swell. Not getting to some point. Not getting to a place. Just a swell. It is so funny, when I decided to fully take advantage of the next swell by hooking up a trip to mex, how happy I was. Basically skipping past all of the misery in the office. They cannot understand, they will likely never understand. They look at me like I'm crazy. Maybe I am, but it is worth it for the anticipation that I now have. Even if I don't get a wave, the anticipation, it never changes and that in itself is worth it: Stoke

NYC - I could never survive here

Indo via Cali

Marcelo and his girlfriend Genith stopped off in California for a few days before leaving to Bali for two months. The plan was to pick up a few boards, a couple wetsuits and some cloths from his sponsors and then shoot a bunch photos that could be used for an ad.

Genith shot this one from the top of the point at Salt Creek Sunday afternoon with a Canon 50D and 300MM lens, he says it'll work.

Vamp blood.

Dawn.

Four thirty am wake up call for those of us who went down to Trestles before starting the work week this morning. I'm going out on limb here and calling it four to five foot with some over head set waves, only two of which I rode, but an overall solid session. I mean, you can't really beat good Trestles type waves in Southern California unless we have a good combo swell, so getting my tired beaten up surfed out body into the car this morning was well worth it.

After a two huge double sessions on Saturday, I'm holding steady at minus 42.

Crip walking into the 40's.

I know. I know. I know. I'm behind. I'm down. Minus 42. I get it. Whatever. I just can't be bothered right now. Not when my online dating profile is taking down the honeys. Awe yeah! This shit is crazy, yo!

Check it.

Don't you wish your girlfriend was hot like mine!

Scientific Matching Service

 

I don't use traction pads - down 12

I don't use them maybe I should.



WE POLLED 100 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA SURFERS AND FOUND...

61% Prefer their traction come in multiple pieces rather than just a single piece

3 of 4 Favor pads with an arch

57% Favor a larger kick over a smaller one

9 of 10 Said they NEVER buy traction based on which pro surfer’s signature pad it is

Traction on a fish? 66% NO 34% YES

Traction on a longboard? 80% NO 20% YES

Small.

Down 9 - Cuz that's what friends are for...

Was going to surf today but the dog decided to take a leak on the rug in the dining room so I decided to clean that one up instead. Man's best friend...
Oh yeah, and here is my other friend melting down...

Reading a book called kook.

Pretty cool. Did I mention that this iPad is the best thing ever?

Down 8 - Small today

Stoked on the test. Surfed shitty all day and then surfed well. Didn't surf yesterday. Today was small but rippable. iPad is the coolest thing ever. Thank you Dad for going and videoing all day. I'll have to check the vid when I get a moment.

Did the math.

I last left the blog at minus 35 on July 17, since then I've been consistently losing one and two days at time. On Saturday we had our first contest of the 2010 WSA Series. Entering two divisions and advancing through a few heats always allows you to make up a little ground. That day I surfed four heats and one free surf totaling five sessions, bringing my count to minus 39.

Go time - down 12 - no waves still

Contest time!!! Amped, I cannot help it. I really hope I'm not too nervous!

Down 12 - Surf is awful

No mojo going into the test... That's ok though. I'll get a warm-up in and be golden. Saturday, Trail 5. I'm amped, which is usually a bad sign. It is just so fun hanging with the crew competing, watching heats, talking shit. So fun. I cannot wait. Rookie alert, I know what they are thinking. It is a different kind of surfing, completely. Stoked to have TOM and TONY get involved. I'm going to video the entire thing. Should be cool... Look for it in your video section at your local surfshop.

Honeymoon.

From Tammy.

I went to San Onofre this afternoon to practice...

Some guy on the beach took these Pics...

Down 11 - No surfing for 4 days...

Letting my hip get better, hopefully. I'll get back in tomorrow. It feels a little better but still buggin.

Saw a boatman from Tavi walking on the street yesterday. Funny. Small world.

It's time!!!

Down 7 - Play Doh day.

Trestles is Lame - Down 7

Be afraid competition, analyzing learning, getting better...

This is what it looked like from the water out there today:

Down 7 Still - Fun ones today

Did a 360. Lame, but the dude who is always out there started trying them. Funny. A different guy on the beach had a camera today.

A dude had a camera on the beach today - Down 7

Good out there today - Down 7

Pretty much just like indo but better...

Really fun today at zero's - Down 7

Tomorrow prob surf close to home. Still looked really fun out front.

Lost a lot of good men out there...

Tomorrow Zeros...

No surf yesterday - so good today - Down 7

Going to Zeros tomorrow, I think. Will be good. My house was firing today. Long, long lefts, right off of the 34th street bar. My leg is hurting me, but I still unloaded on a few.

Double again - Down 6

Ouch Parko. Some swell on the way. I hope to go surf some reefs before work this week at dawn... Cannot wait, it will be fun. Tony might do the WSA too. That should be cool.

Olson's prodding blog entries are my Parko's heel.

Double Session again Yesterday - Down 7

Got some fun ones. Having to lay down the law with the new crew at 42nd street. Surfed the fun gun this morning. Catching up!!! 365 in 365...

My sweet (sweat) view from the couch.

Down 8 now - Double session yesterday...

Maybe double again today? Was fun this morning unleashing a lethal attack on 1 foot mush... Had a few turns though. Tom gave me a cutback complex today. I'm going to go home and stand in front of the mirror and visualize. I believe in myself and gosh darn it, I'm good enough...

My new face book profile picture...

From Bruce via Tom.

Nine 9 down - Happy B-day Dad!

I got a couple this morning... Fun but surfed like shit. Then I took Morty out and he took a shit. And then went to work I was like, shit I'm at work.

Anyway, Happy B-day dad!

A free idea I just had.

The art direction is shitty, the font is times, the color sucks, but if you go to a church with a large surfer congregation, this idea should make a lot of sense and maybe some hipster designer there could do a nice job making this much radder than I didn't do.

Minus 31, suck it, I'm giving it all away for free.

Down 9 now - 2 days off

I need to get better. Battling a groin injury now... Sucks. Gonna get back in the water tomorrow though.

Check it below. Me and Jay got blown out... Taka can't take the Hawaiian out:

Masters US Champion:
1) Scott Shimoda
2) Rick Takahashi
3) Yufu Penrose
4) Young Tarring

It's gonna suck for both of them next year when I combo them in the final...

Thoughts.

Uppers on barely any swell is better than most places with some.

With the Brazilians and Germans out, it really makes no difference where you watch the World Cup final.

Getting new full suit for this summer is not a bad idea; it's freezing balls and they're cheap right now.

A t-shirt that said "I heart my shaper" would kill it at one of those trendy coastal churches where everyone surfs. I'll never make it, so there's a free idea.

Lindsay Lohan is dumb ass little brat and I wish somebody would just tell her to shut up and do her shit. Or let Sharon Stone kick her ass in a no rules cage fight. Maybe through it on pay per view and donate the proceeds to whatever.

I'm four months in and a month behind, minus 30.

This isn't funny.

Shit like this happens everyday.

Once again, I feel like a really good guest on a really bad game show, or even worse, I'm the creative consultant responsible for maintaining authenticity and integrity for the movies listed below.

FunGunner - Down 7

Small cold windy. Still got some fun ones...

Mistake - Down 7

Not 8...

Down 8 - No surf for two days... Nursing my old aching body

Hopefully going to get on it tomorrow. Whether or not it is the fun gun... I don't know. I'm so looking forward to August 7th... My birthday and the first contest. I cannot wait. So fun... Something to surf for right now. Something to get healthy for. Top 3 is the goal this year. I know I can do it. If Yari is there... Who cares. I think Jay and I are both really hungry for a win, which will make it even more fun. Yari or not I want one of those trophies. I will surf some NSSA events as well this year. Just cuz, it is fun...

World Cup Northside

Knocked out a surf between games this morning. Bad. Horrible. Might have even made top ten worst days this year. Whoa. Messy.

Olde Ship with Ulloa. Go Spain.

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Location:W 17th St,Santa Ana,United States