Day 10 - Super Bowl Sunday.

It was horrible out there today! I surfed the Cape. Horrible. I'm glad I got that out-of-the-way today. The funny thing is that I did get one decent left. I was able to pump and pick up speed. Hopefully tomorrow's better!

Day 9

So gnarly today! Waited too long. Now a cold front hit. First one. It got really bad fast. Caught 3 waves. Shore pound, but kept the streak alive!

Day eight

Surfed Coco's today. It was really good. Head high and perfect. Only four guys out. I started to surf really well. Although a little bit inconsistent. So much fun!

Day 7

I surf the bay today and it was really good. It was small enough to be manageable for me. Plus my confidence is getting higher. I swam as well today. I swam 1000 m today. My surfing is coming up to par as well. But my back is bothering me now. I'll work through it.

Day 6

It is a lot easier to always be in trunks.  I admit.  This streak, feels far more doable than previous ones.  Retirement + Paradise = Surfing A lot made easy.  At least that is how it feels today.  Maybe it will be different tomorrow.

Surfed some half-formed sandbars in the bay today.  Pretty walled, but still found a couple good ones.  It blows my mind that what I'm surfing daily is better than a good day in El Porto, where I used to live.  Additionally, there is nobody out except for a few tourists.  I guess that is because there are world-class waves all over the joint.  It is weird surfing solo all the time, but I love it.

Swam 750m today and worked on holding my breath.  I feel like I'm pretty close to getting into some more challenging surf.

I'm looking forward to being in top shape for our trip to New Zealand / Bali?  Or wherever there are some good waves.  I'm starting to get my grom-stoke back!

Day 5 – I feel like the Martian!

I find myself planning everything and advanced making sure that I can make my sessions so I feel like the Martian. OK well it's not really like that, but I feel like I have to plan around my surf sessions now to make sure that I make it a continuous streak prior to going to New Zealand.

This morning, scratch that, today I went to pavilions yet again. The reason why is that it has been big and I'm not really ready to make the paddle into 6-8 foot waves at a legitimately heavy break. Anyway, I had fun and I'm starting to get my groove back so it is really exciting. However, I have a lot to work on in terms of my cardio, strength etc. I just got a membership at the local pool so hopefully that will give me the confidence to get out when it gets big.  Nothing worse then breaking a board/leash when you are way offshore and in a lot of current.

Days until New Zealand!

Also days left in streak.