Down A lot - Waves this morning but walled....

I didn't surf, but had a good walk with the doggy. He digs checking the surf in the morning. It was way too walled, but pretty sizable. It was fun watching dudes get pitched.

Nice Night

So many guys out there right now. It is pretty good. I surfed earlier got a few. Should've surfed at sunset though.

Have no idea how many I'm down

Got out there for 3 really bad waves today. Surprisingly it was still fun even though it was like 58 degrees. I don't know why I didn't wear my 4/3.

Had a good weekend at the campsite. Good to see the family and camp! I'll write more on here going forward. I have been working really hard for some reason. Not really even sure why at this point.

It was really good to see Pops in better spirits too! He got me the best b-day present ever. I would never think to buy an extra one. A battery for my cam. I'm going to make a mini duckumentary on me mex trip.

I'm looking forward to the next swell and the next contest. It should be fun! So stoked on that stuff. It is weird how happy that stuff makes me. That's it. That's life. That's the journey. A swell. Not getting to some point. Not getting to a place. Just a swell. It is so funny, when I decided to fully take advantage of the next swell by hooking up a trip to mex, how happy I was. Basically skipping past all of the misery in the office. They cannot understand, they will likely never understand. They look at me like I'm crazy. Maybe I am, but it is worth it for the anticipation that I now have. Even if I don't get a wave, the anticipation, it never changes and that in itself is worth it: Stoke

NYC - I could never survive here

Indo via Cali

Marcelo and his girlfriend Genith stopped off in California for a few days before leaving to Bali for two months. The plan was to pick up a few boards, a couple wetsuits and some cloths from his sponsors and then shoot a bunch photos that could be used for an ad.

Genith shot this one from the top of the point at Salt Creek Sunday afternoon with a Canon 50D and 300MM lens, he says it'll work.

Vamp blood.

Dawn.

Four thirty am wake up call for those of us who went down to Trestles before starting the work week this morning. I'm going out on limb here and calling it four to five foot with some over head set waves, only two of which I rode, but an overall solid session. I mean, you can't really beat good Trestles type waves in Southern California unless we have a good combo swell, so getting my tired beaten up surfed out body into the car this morning was well worth it.

After a two huge double sessions on Saturday, I'm holding steady at minus 42.