Uppers yesterday, Creek now.

It's Easter, it's early and it's totally not a good day to run out of coffee. This is gonna suck way more than it usually does.

Surfing doesn't get the ladies.

Anyone who's anyone, knows that chicks dig surfers. I mean let's face it, they're hot, with their bronzed ripped abs and radical forearm tats. But those aren't the ones I'm talking about. Those guys are smart. I'm talking about the imbecile who gets up at the crack, drives his car down to ocean, puts on a damp wetsuit on and paddles his sorry ass into the frigid bowels of the pacific to get three waves because he made a pact with his equally idiotic surfing friend to do just that.

That guy, he doesn't get the ladies. Not him. He gets three waves while the real surfers sleep in with their super hot warm girlfriends.

14/15. Suck it.

15/15 - Good Friday - so good!

Last years post:

http://portosurf.blogspot.com/2009/04/day-23-good-friday-and-i-mean-good.html

It was really good today.  The only problem is that it was so consistent once you caught a wave it was a fight to get back out.  Anyway, I surfed for a long time on this Good Friday like last year.  I got thumped over and over for sure.  I was thrown to the bottom multiple times, most of which included me holding onto my board as a result of a duck dive.  But the payoff was a barrel fest.  I got tons of barrels but only came out of 2.  So fun, so good.

Last night makes 13 in 14.

And I gotta say, that picture of Tahoe looks a little better than what I've been getting this week. Yesterday was so bad that I was the only guy in the water. I was actually a little embarrassed to be out there. That said, I still had fun.

Surfing this week has been kind of like that fat girl joke, it's fun getting some, but you just don't want your friends to see you doing it.

Yesterday was 14/14

It was out of control.  I was the only one out.  I made it outside somehow and then got stuck in a rip that sent me out to sea.  I was able to paddle out of that back into the line up to immediately get cleaned up by a bomb set.  Some how I got 3 waves in about 45 minutes, but it was not easy.  Glad I did it though.

The next time I think it's hard to surf...

I'll look at this photo.  Tom sent it yesterday.  It is from Tahoe on Monday.  You have to be pretty hardcore...

I cannot begin to explain...

To you how bad this is going to suck. Super consistent, windy, big and
cold. My back hurts and i'm tired. Play a violin for me please.