Thursday, July 29, 2010

I went to San Onofre this afternoon to practice...

Some guy on the beach took these Pics...










Down 11 - No surfing for 4 days...

Letting my hip get better, hopefully. I'll get back in tomorrow. It feels a little better but still buggin.

Saw a boatman from Tavi walking on the street yesterday. Funny. Small world.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Trestles is Lame - Down 7


Be afraid competition, analyzing learning, getting better...













This is what it looked like from the water out there today:



Friday, July 23, 2010

Down 7 Still - Fun ones today






Did a 360. Lame, but the dude who is always out there started trying them. Funny. A different guy on the beach had a camera today.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Really fun today at zero's - Down 7


Tomorrow prob surf close to home. Still looked really fun out front.

Lost a lot of good men out there...

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Tomorrow Zeros...

No surf yesterday - so good today - Down 7

Going to Zeros tomorrow, I think. Will be good. My house was firing today. Long, long lefts, right off of the 34th street bar. My leg is hurting me, but I still unloaded on a few.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Double again - Down 6

Ouch Parko. Some swell on the way. I hope to go surf some reefs before work this week at dawn... Cannot wait, it will be fun. Tony might do the WSA too. That should be cool.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Double Session again Yesterday - Down 7

Got some fun ones. Having to lay down the law with the new crew at 42nd street. Surfed the fun gun this morning. Catching up!!! 365 in 365...

Thursday, July 15, 2010

My sweet (sweat) view from the couch.

Down 8 now - Double session yesterday...

Maybe double again today? Was fun this morning unleashing a lethal attack on 1 foot mush... Had a few turns though. Tom gave me a cutback complex today. I'm going to go home and stand in front of the mirror and visualize. I believe in myself and gosh darn it, I'm good enough...

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

My new face book profile picture...


From Bruce via Tom.

Nine 9 down - Happy B-day Dad!

I got a couple this morning... Fun but surfed like shit. Then I took Morty out and he took a shit. And then went to work I was like, shit I'm at work.

Anyway, Happy B-day dad!

Monday, July 12, 2010

A free idea I just had.

The art direction is shitty, the font is times, the color sucks, but if you go to a church with a large surfer congregation, this idea should make a lot of sense and maybe some hipster designer there could do a nice job making this much radder than I didn't do.

Minus 31, suck it, I'm giving it all away for free.

Down 9 now - 2 days off

I need to get better. Battling a groin injury now... Sucks. Gonna get back in the water tomorrow though.

Check it below. Me and Jay got blown out... Taka can't take the Hawaiian out:

Masters US Champion:
1) Scott Shimoda
2) Rick Takahashi
3) Yufu Penrose
4) Young Tarring

It's gonna suck for both of them next year when I combo them in the final...

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Thoughts.

Uppers on barely any swell is better than most places with some.

With the Brazilians and Germans out, it really makes no difference where you watch the World Cup final.

Getting new full suit for this summer is not a bad idea; it's freezing balls and they're cheap right now.

A t-shirt that said "I heart my shaper" would kill it at one of those trendy coastal churches where everyone surfs. I'll never make it, so there's a free idea.

Lindsay Lohan is dumb ass little brat and I wish somebody would just tell her to shut up and do her shit. Or let Sharon Stone kick her ass in a no rules cage fight. Maybe through it on pay per view and donate the proceeds to whatever.

I'm four months in and a month behind, minus 30.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

This isn't funny.

Shit like this happens everyday.

Once again, I feel like a really good guest on a really bad game show, or even worse, I'm the creative consultant responsible for maintaining authenticity and integrity for the movies listed below.

FunGunner - Down 7

Small cold windy. Still got some fun ones...

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Mistake - Down 7

Not 8...

Down 8 - No surf for two days... Nursing my old aching body

Hopefully going to get on it tomorrow. Whether or not it is the fun gun... I don't know. I'm so looking forward to August 7th... My birthday and the first contest. I cannot wait. So fun... Something to surf for right now. Something to get healthy for. Top 3 is the goal this year. I know I can do it. If Yari is there... Who cares. I think Jay and I are both really hungry for a win, which will make it even more fun. Yari or not I want one of those trophies. I will surf some NSSA events as well this year. Just cuz, it is fun...

Saturday, July 3, 2010

World Cup Northside

Knocked out a surf between games this morning. Bad. Horrible. Might have even made top ten worst days this year. Whoa. Messy.

Olde Ship with Ulloa. Go Spain.

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Old World

You try to get along. Mix in. Be part of the whole. But sometimes, you have to move against the grain, say piss off, go away, sorry I was here first to the nice German woman pleading for your seat.

World Cup Quarterfinals.



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Friday, July 2, 2010

Pre-lameness

Friday morning. Woke up early to meet Aaron at the bar. Reminiscent of last Friday. Yep, Brazil was playing again and we were there to see them lose with a hundred other World Cup fans. It was sad I have to admit, I was looking forward to a Germany Brazil final, so I played along with the crowd. Truth is, I read a lot of shit online that had me sending a flurry of texts to friend in Vegas putting 100 bucks on the Dutch to win. Who does that? Gamblers I suppose, and me, at least this week that is. Not sure how that'll turn out, but who cares, my ego was wafting with confidence on idea that I actually had some sort of insight that others didn't see. Then again, it could have gone either way.

What is this, a soccer blog? Okay, after the game I grabbed my board and met another friend on the north side. Party weekend was already starting up, junior life guards, NSSA Championships, HSS Surf School and a host of beach goers were all on it. Total zoo, but still fun. I'd give it 5.4 on 1-10 scale and my surfing a 7.8.

In the office now on a day off, trying to pull together ideas for a Tuesday morning meeting in Sacramento. Who does that? Booking a post holiday meeting first thing on the day back, and in another city even.

Ugh. Minus 26 and loving the shit out of it, everyday.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

6 Down - Feeling it

New pad is working out well.  Took our dog on a run on my skater this morning while I watched the crowded waves - the spotted dude is so outta shape!  This morning was good and I was on it at 5:30.  Surfed until about 7 when it was completely packed out.  Chest high with really good shape.  I had an 8 point ride this morning.  Massive carve to tail release, full rail cut back off the white water hard, two pumps and then blow the tail.  Surfing really well today.  No leash, lost my board once and didn't hold back.  That has me feeling it.  Looking forward to surfing with homey this weekend, it should be fun.  Maybe Dume.  Maybe somewhere else, I don't know.