Back in the saddle... 6 down

I've been keeping a running total in my head.  Made up some ground in Tavi, lost some recently.  6 down.  Fun this morning.  Had some waist high runners with 2 - 3 snaps felt good on the komp.  So stoked to get back on the contest circuit!  Can't wait until August to fire back up!  New apartment, wife, dog.  Getting settled, so stoked.  Oh and I cannot wait until I have internet and TV tomorrow.  That will be awesome.  You don't know until you don't have it for 2 weeks.

150 deep?

Sunday evening, post double session at Trestles, Aaron guides us to Laguna for a poki sampling that proves to be nearly fatal to my lower intestines, or maybe it was the fried sweet potatoes, or the 47 ounces of Pari Pari hot sauce I poured on everything including my finger.

Monday night, north side, overhead, five guys out and every one of them including myself were total dick heads.

Tuesday morning, saw Steve, Dave Turbo and Kelly from HSS. The swell is dwindling, as are my hopes for complete world domination.

Wednesday morning, no go, stuffed full of bbq corn, pupusas and huntington beach tools, i either hate my town or i hate people as a general rule of thumb.

Holding at minus 26 since we started counting in March, but at I figure I'm well over 150 sessions so far in 2010. Why must I count everything? My mild OCD, a tinge of Aspergers coming on, or a long string of total insanity that is slowly coming out as I approach the half way point, all valid assumptions.

A bomb comes in.

And I burn some guy to get it. Blatantly. Dipped him in oil, flocked him, poured gas over him, looked him in the eye, and threw a match at his feet. So bad. He went anyway and I went completely out of control and ran right into him at full speed. It was bad. It looked more like football than surfing.

Aside from that, Trestles was really good yesterday.

USA Nationals

Olson and I got the nod from the Greg at the WSA, qualifying us for a shot at the national title. Anybody that knows me and my surfing knows I didn't have chance in hell, but its still fun trying. Hundred and fifty bucks for twenty minutes of two Hawaiians hand feeding me my ass. First round blow out. Sixth place overall Mens Masters finish. Minus 22. Suck it.

An unassuming place.

Yep. Pretty much like I expected. The winds died down and te cleaned up. Got really fun magbar this morning at the crack. Waves are dying but a new south is filing in this afternoon. Superstar is back from Fiji and my friend at Toyota dialed in my 4x4 saving me a grand. Things are returning to normal again, and that I mean it's Sunday and I'm at Whole Foods in Tustin watching World Cup Soccer at the wine bar with a bunch of Italians. Whateves, this is my story.


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Location:Park Ave,Anaheim-Santa Ana-Garden Grove,United States

Headached.

Went down to Santa Ana to watch the World Cup opener with a bunch of Mexies. Getting a beer spilt on me was the closest thing I've come to getting wet since Wednesday on the northside. Waves are shit house. And have been since that weather showed up. Just walked outside and it seems the wind has finally stopped, maybe my headache will too and I can gibe it a go in the morning.

FML


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Hi fuck face!

Some middle aged man told me fuck you and then said if I drop in on him again he's gonna kick my ass then he said I should consider myself warned. Told me twice, just to be sure I knew. I laughed at him and then he swung at me. Then I said chill out dude, it's Sunday, the waves are firing, you should be so lucky Then he paddled after me and told me he was gonna fuck me up. So I went home. Was done anyway. Such a fucker. Probably beats his kids and hates children.

This was probably the best day we've had this year. Mag bar. Head high, some a little bigger, super clean peaks. Best day of a five day swell. Surfed three hours and ten minutes. Still can't believe that fuck face man was such a cock. If I knew martial arts I would have karate chopped his forehead.

Minus 16.

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Location:Orange Park Blvd,Orange,United States

Oversleeping.

Shhhhh. It's 3am. I'm up. Wide awake. Seems that after all the naps I took over the weekend I'm completely caught up on sleep. Beacause I'm up. Like really up. Which is lame because I like sleeping. A lot. And I'm really good at it. Whateves. Up. Waiting for sunrise. Waiting to see if that new south is pouring any water our way.


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Location:Beach Blvd,North Coast,United States

She sure does.